A detailed, step-by-step kitbashing project that will challenge your modeling abilities
by Joseph Lofland Dec, 1981
below to view picture
In 1969, the Erie Lackawanna Railroad took delivery of 34 3600 hp. SDP45's (Nos. 3635-3668). These units were not meant for passenger service and differed from EMD's standard model in that they had no steam generators. Consequently, they also lacked the extra vents and flat end common to other SDP45's. The EL used the longer frame simply to accommodate a larger capacity fuel tank.
I kitbashed my EL SDP45 from a dummy unit so sound could be added, but with some minor changes you can build a powered unit. If you combine one of these with a powered SD45, you will have an excellent looking and sounding lash-up.
The frame is an Athearn FP45. If you wish to add sound and lights, you will have to change the wheels to metal Athearn wheels, and also change the bushings to metal ones. The frame itself has to be shortened to a length of 46 feet.
A razor saw was used to cut the ends off the frame. The center section of the frame, which includes the fuel tank and both bolsters, was the only portion saved (see Figure 1). The air tanks on the side above the fuel tanks were made by putting a piece of round brass stock in a drill or lathe and using a file and emery paper to round the ends. Brass wire and fuel fillers were then added for detail.
A Modeltronics sound unit was connected to the frame. A two-inch speaker was used, but it was cut down to fit into the shell. This was easy; but care was used so the speaker was not torn. Take some Ambroid cement and place a bead all along the edge of the speaker paper to protect it and give it some rigidity
The shell is the major part of the construction. The overhang for the fans on the roof of the SD45 shell is the first part to be cut off. Remove and save both the grills and over-hang portion because you will need to replace them later (see Figure 2). The SD45 shell is now cut behind the last large door, and a SDP 40 shell is cut 23 feet from the long end. All detail is removed from the SDP4O shell except the doors. The flat end of the SDP 40 shell is cut off and replaced with the end of a GP35 (see Figure 3).
The key to getting both a good looking model and a good fit is to make your cuts allowing a little excess which you can file down to a smooth square fit. To insure a square fit, make sure to use a modeler's square. If you build with care, you will not need to do much filling. There isn't any room for filling and sanding between Athearn doors, so a perfect fit is important. Plastic Weld is used for all gluing of the plastic parts. If seams need filling, I use Green Putty manufactured by Squadron Shop.
The three low profile fans on the top of a DD 40 were cut off, allowing excess for filing. The plate and rivet detail were all used, and the entire piece was placed in position after an opening had been cut and filed out.
Three the small pieces of plastic saved from the top of the 5D45 shell and position them on the side of the shell. The grills must he positioned under the overhang. Glue the over-hang pieces to the shell,but not the grills.The taper behind them now has to be built up with styrene and filler. The grills should he perfectly fitted in position, before you glue them to the shell.
The number boards have to he drilled out and filed smooth at this point. Use a sharp X-acto knife to shave the grab irons off. You will need to do some sanding where the grab irons were removed. This may cause an indentation in the rear of the long end that has to be filled along with the headlights of the low nose.
The last bit of body work done was a slot for the brake wheel on the low nose of the fireman's side. An X-acto knife, a file, and sand paper will accomplish this simply All sanding is done with a series of 250, 400, and 600 grit sand paper.
The details are what set off a good model. There isn't much added, but the small parts really give the engine a railroad flavor. The air hoses, windshield wipers, and coupler lift bars are .015 brass wire bent to shapes as required (see Figure 4). Athearn stanchions may be used, or you can fabricate your own. Holes for some of the stanchions will have to be repositioned. The handrails on the long end will have to be formed from brass wire. The center portions of the handrails on the ends are cut out, and a Campbell chain is installed. The space behind the pilot needs to be built up with styrene in order to mount the Kadee couplers. All the other detail parts are commercially available. Compare the parts list with the photos to see where the details are added.
The entire shell is sprayed with Scalecoat gray The front, rear, and bottom of the running boards are sprayed with yellow. The yellow is masked off, leaving only the top of the engine and the pilots for a coat of grimey black. Yellow safety paint is applied to the handrails and grab irons on the pilots. Use drafting tape
for all masking work. The stickum will not remove paint or leave a residue on the model. The maroon and yellow stripe is an AccuCal decal. Numbers are added to the sides and number boards. A builder's plate and radio equipped decals go on each side, as well as heralds on beth ends. Solvaset is used to a& here the decals to the model, followed by an overspray of flat finish paint. The weathering is done with very thin sprays of grime, dust, and depot buff paint. The marker jewels are then installed. Super glue is used to adhere the jewels to the shell.
An interior can be made out of styrene. The detail parts found in this interior are made by GSB, and the fireman is~a Weston figure.
A sheet of brass was placed in the top of the cab and rear portion of the engine. The light bulbs were attached to the brass sheets so the heat would not melt any plastic. Clear acetate was placed in the cab windows.
Using the techniques I have mentioned, and by taking your time, you will have an excellent model. Remember to go light on the liquid cement, drill small holes, and use fine sandpaper. The fit of the seams is extremely important, as well as the filling.
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